Tuesday, November 14, 2006

Testing 1-2-3

1. Panne velour tank top from the Burda WOF November Issue, Pattern #111:

Today I decided to finish this simple project, except that I do not know what "Vilene/Pellon Fuse and Fold" is, or exactly how it is to be applied to the neck and armhole edges. I posted a message to Stitchers, so I know I will get a response sooner or later. I find it odd that googling that product produces essentially nothing useful.

I have learned from this tank top that velour is NOT a good fabric to test a pattern with. It is too slippery, too hard to cut carefully, and when all is said and done, there is really no guarantee that both sides of the garment are the same when you're finished. In spite of flaws, though, it looks really sharp, and is quite forgiving on the body. I did get a bit of pattern adjustment settled, but I will have to do another 'muslin' in a more cooperative fabric to finalize the shoulder seams. But, I've travelled a short way down the road to a TNT Pattern.

Because of my interfacing dilemma, I left the project until an answer comes my way.

2. Rearrangements to SWAP fabrics:

I took an early morning trip to Walmart, where I NEVER go, to check out their fabrics. There, I found something for a drapy shirt for my SWAP in a greenish taupe. When I got home, I concluded that the 'ecru' color of my cotton/linen blend was not working well with the other colors. Moved my Egyptian Linen to the 'bottoms' category, and moved the creamier color out. I have it already cut out for One Seam Pants, so I will use it as a Muslin. It will ultimately coordinate with most of the items in my SWAP, so definitely not a lost cause. If the One-Seams work out, I'll include a black pair in my SWAP....maybe.

3. Testing the poly/viscose:

Today I also tested the poly-viscose blend that feels so soft and wonderful, but which is supposed to be dry cleaned to prevent bleeding when washed. I tried a piece in water, and a piece in vinegar/water. I could not see much difference in the amount of bleeding, so I will throw both of them in the wash with some dark towels and see what happens. If the fabric washes ok, I will use it, but perhaps not as planned. The plan was for it to be half of a reversible skirt. Not a good idea to have one side run into the other.

4. De cluttering and starting another test garment.

I cleaned up my dining room table from ends of cutting, and parts of various patterns and fabrics cluttered about. Sometimes it feels good to just sort and order things. After this I was able to start tracing a shirt pattern for my SWAP, fiddling with adjustments, and having to stop to get supper. This shirt I think I will test on a red cotton that I deleted from my SWAP because I can't see wearing a red shirt with olive pants -- both are too strong, and too complimentary to go well together -- but, the red will go well with my print, and with black pants and ecru linen pants, so it, too, will be a Muslin that becomes add-on if all goes well.

Sometimes it feels like I have to do a SWAP to do a SWAP.

Later in the evening, after a meeting at the Quilting Guild, i finished tracing the Burda shirt pattern, and pinfitted it. It seems to fit amazingly well, at this stage anyway. During tracing I added an inch above the bust line to accomodate a low bust point, and I traced a size 14 top, with size 16 side seams, adjusting sleeves to accomodate this. During the pinning, I had to take in the back seam to almost the size 14 point, so there will be some additional adjustment there getting it all to hang correctly. Back and shoulders have been a problem in patterns I have tried to far. Until I tried Burda, I have needed an FBA, or a 14/16 combo of sizes. I am still trying to work around the simplest way to accomodate a full bust and narrow back. Maybe Burda will be the answer. I have read somewhere that they are designed for a C cup.

Before heading for bed, I laid out the pattern on some black jacquard that I had originally purchased for my SWAP, but which proved to be the wrong color of black to go with my print. I decided to save the red cotton for an upcoming course on reversible quilted jackets.

Current Clothing UFO's:
  • One Seam Pants (muslin for possible black pants in SWAP)
  • Grey Pants (just need hems) - this was a muslin for the green cords in SWAP
  • Velour tank top (muslin for something in SWAP as yet to be determined)
  • Black jacquard zip front, short sleeved shirt. (muslin for print shirt in SWAP)

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Vilene/Pellon Fuse and Fold is simply Vilene Bias Tape - according to a post on another website, it is a translation error from the German.