Sunday, November 26, 2006

The SWAP gets moving

Finally almost all the SWAP decisions are made. At least I am now working from a surfeit of ideas rather than a dearth of them, so it's easier knowing I have lots of choices that are possible. There are still some decisions, and no doubt more changes. I discovered a couple of important things recently:
  • I am often hot, therefore making long-sleeved garments is not a great idea unless they can be worn over a shell or tank top. Thus, long-sleeved knits or other polyester items are probably not practical in the SWAP.
  • I do not do well when the entire plan has to be laid out ahead of time. For some reason I need anchors that I can work around, rather than having all the options open all the time. This is because of my inability to settle on a reasonable decision. I keep looking for the very best options, and in the process waste a lot of time. For this reason I have decided to cut the red velour skirt. This makes it FIXED as a project, along with the OneSeam Pants. I am also going to cut the print skirt later today. I also think part of this is my unwillingness to close things off. I always like a few options to be open. Funny how we learn so much about ourselves when doing something like this.
All my UFO's are done except for hemming the grey pants, and that's encouraging. Mostly for the past few days I've been working on muslins.

Underway at the moment:

Soft Egyptian cotton greenish muslin for the Burda WOF "soft" blouse.
It's ready for machine sewing but I dont have the right color thread. Store was closed when I got there, but in the adjacent dollar store I found 50 yds of ivory lace for $5. Didn't buy it as I don't use much lace, but I may go back and pick it up 'just in case'.

Basic shell SWAP print. I moved the bust dart so it starts at the waist.
The pattern is traced, altered and cut. I'll sew up the front and back, make necessary pattern adjustments, then find something for the back to practice making it reversible. I am using my SWAP print for this as I don't want a print top in the actual SWAP. I'll end up with a print shirt this way, and will be able to add a different colored pant to the SWAP lineup. If I get really moving, I'll be able to wear the shell to the wedding reception with the red skirt. (see below)

Vogue Jean Jacket print muslin.
I decided I should at least do some testing of this Bettina Vogue pattern as there are so many pieces. It's billed as loose fitting, and I don't want it too loose. In a flash of genius I decided to make the muslin in my SWAP print as I have thoughts of lining it with that print anyway. If the muslin fits, I can use the pieces for the actual lining. If it doesn't, I will still have a so-so jacket if I choose to finish it. I will probably opt for the 'use it as a lining' option as the print is quite busy for all those topstitched seams. They would be lost in the whole picture I think. And, the wool crepe will definitely need a sturdy lining I think to make it look right as a jean jacket.

This afternoon I placed and cut all the pieces for this muslin -- everything except facings and second copy of yokes. I think I'll baste in together for a fit test instead of actually sewing it up. Then I can sew later in whatever manner will be required for the SWAP jacket lining. Have to be careful not to "sew" before Dec. 1 on an actual SWAP garment.

Muslin for Vogue 8077 sleeveless shirt, Tomatsu design.
For some reason I keep coming back to this shirt, so I decided to use the leftovers from the Pants in the same pattern. It's a grey polyester stripe, so it will be a pain to work with, especially if there is any ripping out of seams. I should probably bind all the seams right off the bat. I made a 1" bust lowering, and decided to go with a size 16 overall. It's a princess style which is foreign to me as far as bust adjustments go. The last time I tried it I had bumps all over the place and gave up the project for a bad idea. Tonight I laid it out and found I had just enough fabric. Too late to trust the cutting in the bad light - so I'll do it in the daytime. The pattern is supposed to be lined, so it might work out as a reversible item.

The SWAP plan so far: It's obvious since typing this that I still need some work on my top decisions, especially with respect to the pattern choices.

  • Ivory OneSeams [cut in M - wide leg]
  • Red Velour 6-gore skirt [cut in Size 14]
    • Tonight I took the pattern pieces off, marked the few notches, and pinned the skirt together. It fits fine, being quite stretchy, but I am disappointed that I shortened it a bit, and it is nowhere near as full as I thought it would be. The front panel should be much wider for good lines. I feared it would be too full for the fabric, but I could have made something much fuller. It will be ok, but not as spectacular as I had hoped. I think the fabric is actually less substantial than I thought. It will make up quickly on Dec. 1 when the SWAP sewing starts, and maybe I will even wear it to a wedding reception I have to go to that evening. Shoes, of course, I have no proper shoes for all these skirts I am making. Live and Learn. I am glad I did this, though, because this skirt will get much less wear than my print one, which was going to be a variation on the same pattern. Now I think I will make the one with the bias flounce.
  • Print 6-gore skirt [needs pattern traced - see above, needs different pattern choice]
  • Pants undecided [looking for a beige/brown mix that will go with red/ivory/black. or some other color different from the 3 basics]
  • Fallback: Purchased black pants, or make a pair of black cords
  • Options: Add a reversible skirt of some kind
  • Black velour shell, crossover or cowl neck
  • Ivory velour shell or cowl
  • Black viscose long-sleeved "soft" Burda
  • Ivory viscose - pattern undecided - would make a nice overshirt, but too long for the jean jacket - may have to go to phase II
  • Red cotton print - zip front like black jacquard test model
  • Swiss dot ivory cotton - pattern undecided - looking for something with ruffles
  • Options and fallbacks:
    • Black jacquard shirt recently completed
    • Reversible vest still being imagined
    • Fabric ordered from Wazoodle, and swatches from Julie
    • Find a matching red knit for a crossover top.
  • Vogue Jean Jacket in red crepe.
  • Options: reversible quilted jacket to be made in March with Lynn


Lorna said...

I've been a bit puzzled by all the comments that 'your jacket has to be long enough to cover all your tops' in the SWAP.

Since when did that apply in fashion? The current trend for outerwear seems to show both hems and sleeves of the garment below. Not my taste, but certainly there!

BettyF said...

I think its a matter of taste combined with something someone said one day about taking care to see that all the bits go together. For example, I have a previously-made top with short sleeves, that I would usually wear open over top of a tank. I could not use that in my SWAP if I also included long-sleeved blouses, or other shirts with similar collars. At least not in my version of fashion sense. Jacket length kind of comes in the same category. I don't like a shirt hanging below a jacket, especially since my jacket is a jean jacket, I think it would look sloppy to have stuff falling beneath. Some of the pictures I see in magazine make it all these layers look so cool - but at 60+, I don't think I could carry it off!

Thanks for your interest.