Donna Karan Cape -- Day 2

Thanks to my daughter-in-law (who is preparing our Thanksgiving Dinner) I have been able to spend much of this day sewing. The cape is cut out and well meditated over. The pattern called for 2 meters, but I have enough leftover for a slightly A-line, knee-length skirt if I piece the belt for the cape. How great is that!

I tried some very soft knit fusible interfacing on a sample, and vetoed that idea. Even though it was very light, it made the wool much too stiff. Also, the fusing process is just too iffy...potential for bubbles, twists, and a flattening of the nap on the 'right' side due to too much steam and heat.

Instead, I decided to interline with silk organza. At this point the organza is cut and pinned onto the cape pieces. Now I have never done this before, and I don't even know if it is an appropriate use of silk organza, but on the back cape piece it seems to add a bit of body to the garment without changing the nature of the face of the fabric. I think it will also add a layer of warmth. It's not pretty, so I'm still looking for a suitable lining.

Dinner is being served at my dining room table, so I had to finally stop the sewing and clear things away for what promises to be a magnificent supper.

I have not solved the issue of the arm hole slits and their "applique" piece. I did a quick sample done as a bound buttonhole, and my fabric is too thick to do that well. The binding would have to be something less weighty.

I am pondering using a fabric that will allow raw edges. Perhaps ultra-suede, though I've never even seen it. I have also not resolved the grosgrain edge and button hole trim. I have none to play with, so that will be for another day.

Tomorrow I will hand baste the organza onto the back pieces, decide on an inside seam finish (maybe none since it will be lined) and sew up the back seam, topstitching on both sides of the seam line. I tested that and it looks great. I will also eventually do the shoulder/side seams the same way.

This is a thick fabric, so I am a bit worried about bulk at the collar/neckline...but that will come in its own due time.

Happy Thanksgiving fellow Canadians.

Vogue 2875 - Bias Garments

I've been spending time with summer photos of our lovely wildflowers and waterways, hence sewing time is a bit less than usual. I think I am up to 4 or 5 summer UFO's now. Waiting for buttons in some cases, and inspiration in others.

I did finish one item though -- a tank top from Vogue 2875 by ADRI. It was designed on the bias, and I must say, I think I am now convinced all such woven tops should be bias. The drape is lovely and just feels good. My top is a wearable muslin of bargain wall probably-polyester print.

This is a wardrobe pattern (tank, jackets, skirt and pants) which was featured in the Vogue summer magazine. The envelope itself is totally uninspiring, (even less so than the online picture above) and I would not have given it a second glance if not for the magazine feature. The jacket and skirt are also a bias cut, and I am excited to see how the bias affects the way the jacket hangs.

It's a loose fitting pattern, and so breezy and comfortable for summer. The armholes and neckline are meant to be faced with bias strips, but I cut a one-piece shaped facing for the front and one for the back -- an experiment to learn how to line the top in "reversible" fashion. My next version of this will be silk chiffon, underlined lined with something really thin, -- batiste or light silk lining and I will try the bias binding on the armholes and neck edges.

I needed a number of alterations, but the tank top was a simple place to experiment with an FBA, moving darts and taking in the front neckline. I think I've finally figured out what is required for these alterations on other patterns.


Things I learned:

• The bias garment tends to stretch a bit in the wearing, slightly lowering the neckline which is barely above the cleavage. For the sake of modesty and a pre-existing tan line, I will raise the neckline just a bit next time.
• The pattern is quite short, and I needed to add a bit more than usual to have it long enough at the waist.
• Angled darts (from just above the waist) are much more attractive and comfortable than horizontal ones.
• The original pattern has no darts, but the FBA resulted in a substantial dart. I drafted a version with no darts, following directions here (thanks to Julie Culshaw for the reference) but based upon paper-fitting, I don't think it will hang comfortably, but I might give it a try anyway if I can find the right remnant.
  

Balancing comfort and style:

I'm not sure about the style. It is incredibly comfortable to wear, but does not really have any definition at the waist. Thus, it covers various rolls very well, but really does not look too chic.